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Island Peak Climbing Expedition in Nepal

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Island Peak Climbing Expedition in Nepal

  • Duration18 Days
  • Max. Group Size6
  • DifficultyChallenging
  • Highest Point6,189 m

About the Island Peak Climbing Expedition – Nepal Himalayas

The Island Peak Climbing Expedition is one of Nepal’s most iconic 6000m summit adventures, offering a perfect blend of trekking and technical mountaineering in the Everest region. Island Peak (6,189 m), known locally as Imja Tse, is an ideal next step for trekkers who want to progress toward more technical Himalayan climbs such as Lobuche East or Mera Peak.

This Island Peak climbing expedition begins with a classic trek through the Khumbu Valley, passing Sherpa villages, suspension bridges, and Buddhist monasteries before reaching the base of Lhotse and Ama Dablam. The approach allows for natural acclimatization while experiencing the cultural beauty of the Everest region.

Climbers receive instruction in essential mountaineering skills including fixed-line ascents, crampon techniques, ice-axe use, and glacier travel. The summit day involves crossing crevasses, ascending steep snow slopes, and climbing the final headwall using fixed ropes — a thrilling and safe introduction to technical Himalayan climbing.

With certified guides, high-altitude porters, full expedition support, and careful acclimatization planning, this Island Peak climbing expedition is designed for motivated trekkers and aspiring mountaineers seeking a high-reward Himalayan summit in Nepal.

Explore more climbs on our Mountain Climbing India & Himalayas page: https://iwhexpeditions.com/tour-activity/mountaineering/ 

Learn more about Island Peak (Imja Tse) here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Imja_Tse

HIGHLIGHTS:
⭐ Summit Island Peak (6,189 m), a world-famous Himalayan climbing objective
⭐ Trek through the Khumbu Valley with views of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam
⭐ Learn essential mountaineering techniques including fixed-line climbing
⭐ Cross glaciers and ascend the final summit headwall on fixed ropes
⭐ Enjoy high camps with panoramic sunrise views of the Everest region
⭐ Full support: guides, porters, meals, gear checks and acclimatization plans
⭐ Perfect progression after Mera Peak and before Lobuche East
⭐ Combines cultural immersion, technical training and high-altitude adventure

Gallery
Itinerary

Day 1Arrival in Kathmandu

🗻 Altitude: 1,400 m (4,593 ft)

Arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport, where our team greets you and transfers you to your hotel. Evening briefing and welcome dinner in Kathmandu.

Day 2Kathmandu Preparation and Expedition Briefing

🗻 Altitude: 1,400 m (4,593 ft)

Finalize permits, complete gear checks, and shop for essentials in Thamel’s bustling markets. A day dedicated to readiness before heading to the mountains.

Day 3Scenic Flight to Lukla and Trek to Phakding

🛫 Flight Duration: 30 min
🥾 Trekking Distance: 8 km
🗻 Altitude: 2,610 m (8,563 ft)
📈 Altitude Gain: +1,210 m
📉 Altitude Loss: –230 m

Fly into the thrilling Lukla airstrip, then begin trekking along the Dudh Koshi River valley to Phakding, a peaceful riverside village.

Day 4-5Trek to Namche Bazaar and Acclimatization Hikes

🥾 Trekking Distance: 12 km
🗻 Altitude: 3,440 m (11,286 ft)
📈 Altitude Gain: +830 m

Follow high suspension bridges into the Sherpa capital, Namche Bazaar. Spend an extra day acclimatizing with hikes to Everest View Hotel or Khumjung village.

Day 6Trek Through Forest Trails to Tengboche Monastery

🥾 Trekking Distance: 10 km
🗻 Altitude: 3,860 m (12,664 ft)
📈 Altitude Gain: +420 m

Pass rhododendron and pine forests, then ascend to Tengboche, home to Khumbu’s most revered monastery with jaw-dropping Everest and Ama Dablam views.

Day 7Trek to Dingboche – Enter the Imja Valley

🥾 Trekking Distance: 12 km
🗻 Altitude: 4,410 m (14,469 ft)
📈 Altitude Gain: +550 m

Continue into the windswept Imja Valley, surrounded by stone fields and towering peaks. Arrive at Dingboche for the night at high altitude.

Day 8-9Acclimatization in Chhukung with Side Treks

🥾 Trekking Distance: 6 km
🗻 Altitude: 4,730 m (15,518 ft)
📈 Altitude Gain: +320 m

Move higher to Chhukung and use the next day to acclimatize. Optional trek to Chhukung Ri (5,546 m) offers unmatched views of Lhotse and Ama Dablam.

Day 10Trek from Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp

🥾 Trekking Distance: 5 km
🗻 Altitude: 4,970 m (16,305 ft)
📈 Altitude Gain: +240 m

Trek across glacial moraines to reach Island Peak Base Camp. Afternoon dedicated to training on climbing techniques and rope work.

Day 11Ascent to Island Peak High Camp

🥾 Trekking Distance: 3 km
🗻 Altitude: 5,600 m (18,373 ft)
📈 Altitude Gain: +630 m

Climb steeply over rocky slopes to High Camp, the staging point for the summit push. Rest in tents and review climbing skills.

Day 12Summit Island Peak (Imja Tse) and Descend to Base Camp

🥾 Trekking Distance: 10–12 km
🗻 Altitude: 6,189 m (20,305 ft)
📈 Altitude Gain: +589 m
📉 Altitude Loss: –1,219 m

Start pre-dawn across ice slopes and fixed ropes to reach Island Peak’s summit. Enjoy 360° Himalayan panoramas before descending to Base Camp or Chhukung.

Day 13Trek Down to Pangboche Village

🥾 Trekking Distance: 12 km
🗻 Altitude: 3,878 m (12,723 ft)
📉 Altitude Loss: –1,092 m

Descend through alpine terrain to Pangboche, a Sherpa village famous for its monastery and mountain traditions.

Day 15Trek to Lukla – Final Steps of the Journey

🥾 Trekking Distance: 17 km
🗻 Altitude: 2,840 m (9,318 ft)
📉 Altitude Loss: –600 m

Trek back to Lukla, retracing the trails through the Dudh Koshi valley. Overnight stay at a lodge before flying out.

Day 16Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu

🗻 Altitude: 1,400 m (4,593 ft)
📉 Altitude Loss: –1,440 m

Take a scenic mountain flight back to Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel and relax after the climb.

Day 17Free Day in Kathmandu for Exploration

🗻 Altitude: 1,400 m (4,593 ft)

Enjoy a leisure day in Kathmandu—visit Durbar Square, Pashupatinath Temple, or simply unwind with cultural shopping in Thamel.

Day 18Departure from Kathmandu

🗻 Altitude: 1,400 m (4,593 ft)

Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your onward journey, carrying memories of Island Peak’s summit and the Everest region’s beauty.

Travel Information

Arrival Location

Arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA). Kathmandu, Nepal.

Departure Location

Departure From Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA). Kathmandu, Nepal.

Map
Package Details

Inclusions

Airport pick-up and drop-off in Kathmandu
3-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu (twin sharing, breakfast included)
Lodge/teahouse accommodation during trek and tented camping at Island Peak Base/High Camp
All meals during trekking and climbing (breakfast, lunch, dinner, tea/coffee)
Domestic flights Kathmandu–Lukla–Kathmandu
Professional climbing guide (IFMGA/UIAGM certified) and Sherpa support staff
Porters for luggage (15 kg per client)
Climbing permits for Island Peak and Sagarmatha National Park fees
Group climbing gear: ropes, ice screws, tents, stoves, and cooking equipment
First aid kit and emergency oxygen at High Camp
Farewell cultural dinner in Kathmandu

Exclusions

International flights to/from Nepal
Nepal entry visa fees
Travel insurance with emergency evacuation (mandatory)
Personal climbing gear (available for rent in Kathmandu)
Extra meals in Kathmandu beyond the itinerary
Alcoholic beverages, bottled water, and soft drinks
Tips and gratuities for guides, porters, and staff
Expenses due to flight delays, weather, or natural causes

Things you need to carry

Rental gear available at: Into Wild Himalaya Shop

  1. Valid passport, Nepal visa, and permits (kept waterproof)

  2. Mountaineering boots (double boots recommended for summit)

  3. Crampons compatible with boots

  4. Climbing harness, helmet, and ascender/descender devices

  5. Ice axe and trekking poles

  6. Thermal base layers (tops and bottoms)

  7. Down jacket and insulated trousers

  8. Waterproof and windproof shell jacket/pants (Gore-Tex preferred)

  9. Warm gloves (inner + insulated outer mittens)

  10. Woolen hat/beanie and buff/neck gaiter

  11. Sunglasses with UV400 protection & glacier goggles

  12. Sleeping bag (-20°C comfort rating)

  13. Personal first aid kit and prescription medication

  14. Sunscreen SPF 50+ and lip balm with SPF

  15. Hydration system (CamelBak + water bottles)

  16. Energy snacks, gels, and electrolyte mixes

  17. Backpack (50–65 L) and small daypack (20–30 L)

  18. Headlamp with extra batteries

  19. Power bank/solar charger

  20. Toiletries, wet wipes, and biodegradable soap

  21. Lightweight sandals or camp shoes

  22. Travel adaptor (Type C/D/M for Nepal)

First Aid Kit

1. Trauma & Wound Care
• Hemostatic gauze (QuickClot/Celox) – 2 packs
• Tourniquet (CAT Gen 7) – 1-2
• Sterile gauze pads (10+ large sizes)
• Hydrogel burn dressings (for frostbite/rope burns)
• Butterfly sutures + Steri-Strips (wound closure)
• Liquid bandage (for blisters/cracks)
2. Altitude & Severe Medications
• Dexamethasone (for HACE) – 4mg tabs (10 doses)
• Nifedipine (for HAPE) – 20mg tabs (10 doses)
• Acetazolamide (Diamox) – 125mg tabs (20 doses)
• Ibuprofen + Paracetamol (pain/fever)
• Ondansetron (severe nausea/vomiting) – 4mg tabs
• Rehydration salts (ORS) – 10 packets
3. Frostbite & Cold Injuries
• Aloe vera gel (for superficial frostnip)
• Chemical hand warmers (10+ pairs)
• Vaseline/petroleum jelly (skin protection)
4. Advanced Tools
• Portable hyperbaric chamber (Gamow bag)
• Pulse oximeter (with spare batteries)
• Digital thermometer (low-range for hypothermia)
• Syringe + IV kit (for trained medics only)
• SAM splint (for fractures)
5. Consumables & Misc.
• Surgical gloves (10 pairs, nitrile)
• CPR face shield
• Emergency blanket (foil, 2–3 units)
• Chlorine dioxide tablets (water purification)
Key Differences from Trekking Kits:
• Altitude-specific drugs (Dexa/Nifedipine for life-threatening AMS).
• Bleeding control (tourniquets, hemostatic gauze for crevasses/rockfall injuries).
• Team redundancy: Guides carry duplicate kits in case of separation.
• Hypothermia focus (Gamow bag, low-range thermometer).

Pro Tips for Climbers:
• Divide supplies between climbers (never all in one pack).
• Label medicines clearly with dosages/use cases (altitude drugs confuse many!).
• Pre-trip medic training (e.g., IV use, HAPE/HACE identification).

Cancellation Policy

  • More than 30 days before your trip: 90% refund

  • 15–30 days before: 50% refund

  • 7–14 days before: 25% refund

  • Less than 7 days or no-show: No refund

Custom/private trips: Booking advance is non-refundable. Last-minute changes are subject to availability and costs.

For more details on our cancellation policy, please refer to the following link:
https://iwhexpeditions.com/cancellation_policy/

FAQ

How technical is Island Peak compared to Lobuche Peak?

Island Peak involves glacier travel and fixed ropes but is less technical than Lobuche, making it ideal for beginners.

Which currency is most widely accepted on this tour?

Nepalese Rupee (NPR) and Indian Rupees (INR) are best; Euros (EUR),US Dollars (USD) and Pounds (GBP) are also commonly accepted in towns.

Is Island Peak good preparation for Everest?

Yes, it’s considered one of the best training peaks before attempting 7,000 m or 8,000 m expeditions.

Will we cross ladders or crevasses?

Yes, climbers must cross ladders and crevasses with rope and harness support.

What is cancellation policy?

For details on our cancellation policy, please refer to the following link:
https://iwhexpeditions.com/cancellation_policy/

How cold does it get at High Camp?

Temperatures can drop to –15°C to –20°C at night in peak climbing seasons.

What is the success rate for Island Peak?

With acclimatization and proper guidance, the success rate is around 85–90%.

Are there toilets on the trek?

Yes, but they’re basic. Expect dry pit toilets at campsites. Carry toilet paper and hand sanitizer.

Can I charge my electronics during the trek?

Yes, at teahouses in lower villages for a small fee. Above Chhukung, solar charging is limited.

Is the drinking water safe?

Yes, filtered or boiled water is provided at camps. Carry two reusable bottles (1L each). Avoid buying plastic bottles.

How do we acclimatize during the expedition?

The itinerary includes acclimatization days in Namche, Dingboche, and gradual altitude progression before summit.

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